Wednesday, April 30, 2003

The Mohammed Saeed al-Sahaf Saga continues: See Ex-Iraq Info Minister Gets TV Job Offer. Commented George "Hulegu" Bush about al-Sahaf, "He's my man, he was great . . . He was a classic."

Tuesday, April 29, 2003

As if the Killer Virus is not enough of a problem, now it looks like the famous Bodhi Tree in Bodhgaya, India, a descendant of the very Bodhi Tree under which Buddha achieved Enlightenment, is under attack by mill bugs who are Sucking Its Sap and will die soon if something isn't done. "The sacred pipal tree has never been cared for in a scientific manner," frumps the editorial in the Bodhgaya News, "And it has begun to show."


Bodhgaya's Bodhi Tree Under Attack by Killer Mill Bugs

Monday, April 28, 2003

Snowstorm in Ulaan Baatar this morning; snowflakes as big as quarters (that's 2.2 centimeters to you Europeans).


The view from my apartment

Sunday, April 27, 2003

Now it is official: the Dalai Lama will not be coming to the big Buddhist shindig planned for this June here in Ulaan Baatar. Rumor is some Chinese mandarin is supposed to be in town at the same time, which would make a very awkward situation for the Mongolian government. See Dalai Lama No-Show
More on the Mongol Khan Hulegu, previous incarnation of George Bush: "Or should we listen to Eleanor Robson, of All Souls College, Oxford, who said, 'You'd have to go back centuries, to the Mongol invasion of Baghdad in 1258, to find looting on this scale'"? For the whole story see And Now: 'Operation Iraqi Looting'

Buddhist Chic: The latest fashions from the Dharma Wear capital of the world, Graz, Austria
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The mystery deepens: See Al-Sahaf in Suicide Riddle for more on the alleged suicide of erstwhile Iraqi Information Minister Mohammed Saeed al-Sahaf, whose memorabilia is currently a hot item on the internet (see below).

Thursday, April 24, 2003

Wednesday, April 23, 2003

Last one out of town dies! See Sea of White Masks as People Flee SARS-Hit Beijing

Another photo from the new Aryaval Center near Terelj. This is the Kalachakra Temple, still under construction.
See Killer Flu in Hohhot for the story on SARs in Inner Mongolia. For the lastest press release on the Killer Virus from the people sponsoring the June 1 - July 7 Buddhist shindig here in UIaan Baatar see Good News, We Think.

Tuesday, April 22, 2003



On the way back from Gunjin Sum we stopped at the new temple being built at the head of Gorkhin Valley (near the famous Turtle Rock) not far from Terelj. This temple is supposed to be completed by August of this year. See Aryaval Temple for more information and photos I took last fall.

Sunday, April 20, 2003

Over the weekend I made a quicky trip to Gunjin Temple, 35.5 miles northeast of of Ulaan Baatar as the crow flies, or 63.8 miles by road, in a gorgeous area of tor-topped hills at the upper end of the valley of Kok Chuluutiyn Gol, a tributary of Dund Bayangiyn Gol, which itself is a tributary of the Tuul River. The temple was built in 1740 in honor of the Manchurian princess Amgalan who married one of the Tusheet Khans. She was buried here. The temple was heavily damaged in the iconoclastic upheavals of the late 1930s. Amgalan’s coffin has been disturbed and it is not clear if her body is still presently. Presently there is some restoration work going on.


Ruins of Main Gunjin Temple


Guardhouse in front of the Temple
For the lastest from the NY Times on the Killer Virus in Mongolia see Mongolian Capital Is Subdued by Illness Scare, although there is not much new here.

Friday, April 18, 2003

Yesterday I went to the Mongolian Airlines main office and was stopped at the door by a guard because I was not wearing a face mask. Fortunately there were entrepreneurial types on the sidewalk outside selling face masks for 200 togrogs (a little less than 20 cents). A teacher at the Mongolian State University told me that now all teachers and students must wear masks while at lectures. And an informal study I did in front of the busy State Department Store revealed that about 75% of passersby were wearing face masks. Other than that, no new news about the Killer Virus on Mongolia front.
There are rumors on that web that erstwhile Iraqi Information Minister Mohammed Saeed al-Sahaf has commtted suicide. Will this lessen or increase the value of Mohammed Saeed al-Sahaf Memorabilia (tee-shirts, coffee mugs, baby bibs, etc.) for sale on the net?

Thursday, April 17, 2003


An immense White Tara Thangka being prepared at Zanabazar Art Museum. Tara in Her various manifestations is supposed to ward off disease. Let's hope. Apparently this is going to be displayed outside somewhere because I don't think there is an interior wall in Ulaan Baatar big enough to hang it on.

Wednesday, April 16, 2003

More on the “Americans are the New Mongols” Paradigm. Apparently some rare Korans which survived Hulegu’s sack of Baghdad in 1258 did not make the cut this time. See Now Free to Protest, Iraqis Complain About Americans, which says in part: “This morning, the ashes were still smoldering at the Ministry for Religious Affairs, where a building housing thousands of Korans, many of them illuminated and hand written, several a thousand years old, had been burned to a charred shell. It was another severe blow to Iraq's 10,000 years of cultural history, along with the looting of the National Museum and the burning of the National Library, in which countless priceless artifacts and books were lost. ‘When Baghdad fell to the Mongols in 1258, these books survived,’ said Abdel Karim Anwar Obeid, 42, the ministry's general manager for administration. 'And now they didn't survive. You can't put a price on this loss. If you talk to any intellectual Muslims in the world, they are crying right now over this.'"
Iraqi Wifes to Iraqi Husbands: “Sorry Honey, but your looting is giving me a headache.” According to Baghdad Looters Returning Swag, “Some people are surrendering the booty they took in the Dura district of Baghdad, perhaps in response to a rumored edict by a Muslim cleric forbidding Iraqi wives from having sex with looter husbands.” (Inexcusably, the Wall Street Journal ran this story under the headline Surrendering the Booty [subscription may be required].)
Well, I guess it was only a matter of time: Mongolia Has First Suspected SARS Cases. I knew something was wrong when I went out shopping at two o'clock this afternoon. At least half the people in the street had on faces masks. It's springtime in Mongolia, when there are often terrible dust storms and people often wear face masks, but there was no wind and no dust today. I stopped at the book store in the Zanabazar Museum and the woman there said that an announcement had been given on the radio that at least five Killer Virus cases were suspected but not confirmed. Then I went to the Austrian coffee shop just around the corner and found all the girls working there in face masks. They too had heard the warnings on the radio. So now what . . . ?

My Ex-Wife? No, it's a Tsam Mask from Erdene Zuu.
City of New York to Mongolia: "Pay Up or Get Out!". Apparently the government of Mongolia has not been paying its property taxes in New York. "The city is seeking $16.4 million from India for 235 East 43rd Street, which the city says was used for living quarters for people other than the head of India's mission or consulate. A similar claim is made against Mongolia for $2.1 million in taxes for a building at 6 East 77th Street," according to the NY Times.
More bad code . . . I am working on this . . . Really bad code. Ignore the two posts below.

The famous Iraqi Information Minister Mohammed Saeed al-Sahaf now has

Tuesday, April 15, 2003

I love it! Now there is a Disaster News Network with all the world's disasters detailed on one convenient web site so you do not have to go cruising all over the web in search of disasters. Today's leading disaster - you guessed it! - the Killer Virus!

Sunday, April 13, 2003

Examples of the "Americans are the New Mongols" paradigm, mentioned below several times, continue to pour in. Just one case, as reported in the Guardian, "'The army of America is like Genghis Khan,', snapped Fouad Abdullah Ahmed, 49, as US tanks rumbled by without stopping. 'America is not good and Saddam is not good. My people refused Saddam, and they will refuse the Americans.' One young man went further: 'If this continues in Baghdad we'll kill any American or British soldier,' said Rahad Bahman Qasim, 30."

Under the circumstances Mr. Fouad Abdullah Ahmed can be excused if his history is a bit hazy; it was of course Hulegu, Chingis's grandson, who sacked Baghdad in 1258, not Chingis himself, who died in 1227.

In any case, is it too early to hope for another Pax Mongolica?
More from Erdene Zuu . . .

Large Vajrasattva at Erdene Zuu attributed to Zanabazar

Saturday, April 12, 2003

Just returned from Yeson Zuil, the birthplace of Zanabazar, the First Bogd Gegen of Mongolia and Erdene Zuu, site of Mongolia's first Buddhist monastery in the post-Yuan Dynasty era. Should have more on this shortly.


The famous 108 Stupa Wall around Erdene Zuu


Main Temples of Erdene Zuu
All the photos of people hitting statues of Saddam Hussein with their shoes has led to the Washington Post story "Worst Foot Forward: A Guide to Foreign Insults, which helpfully points out that while "In Mongolia, you can't lean on the supporting pole of someone's yurt." Remember this, all you folks coming for Visit Mongolia 2003. Anyone else like to point out Mongolian No-Nos?
Now the Killer Virus Is in Inner Mongolia. Ten cases have been reported in Hohhot, capital of Inner Mongolia, where I was in in February. See my Photos. There are at least two planes a week from Hohhot to Ulaan Baatar and also trains.

More Killer Virus News: Hong Kong has had to dump its catchy new advertising slogan: "Hong Kong Will Take Your Breath Away", for obvious reasons. Whew! Talk about bad timing!